From the sanctuary of a luxurious canopy Andrew Threlfall searches for the answer to the perennial question: Winter in Cannes?
The Big Question in Cannes, of course, is similar to the Film Industry it hosts every May so famously – does an underbelly of intrigue, an independent movie, exist in this fabled city once the heat – not the sun, it’s still blue skies in the winter, disappears for five long months?
Finding Alternative Cannes
Establishing a base camp is crucial in finding Alternative Cannes. Five-star living for half the cost of the famous hotels in La Croisette can be found a five-minute walk from the Palais, still across the road from the beach, at the Canopy.
A Revamped Icon: The Canopy by Hilton
During the heat of August 2023, the game changed. The old Radisson hotel – which had always been perfectly located between the old port and the beaches heading west towards La Bocca and beyond, way beyond towards Saint Tropez and the old town with its fort overlooking the yachts – was back revamped and renamed Canopy by Hilton. For someone who’d spent many afternoons over two decades interviewing Hollywood royalty in the old hotel, the transformation has been spellbinding, and gives guests access to that alternative Cannes.
Location & Style
Set a kilometre from the heart of the Croisette, where the Carlton and the Martinez hotels do their own exclusive expensive thing, the Canopy looks on – like the old fort, seeing everything, shaking it’s head, knowing it does the same job for a fraction of the price, to the same lofty standards. The decor combines “Californian lightness and healthy living, inspired by the great French artists of tomorrow. A perfect blend of calm, well-being and beauty, illustrated, among other things, by a high-perched terrace.” Ah, yes, the terrace, as perfect for sunsets as the beach is for your daily nature fix.
Exploring Cannes by Electric Buggy
Escapism is further enhanced when one books a driver to take out Kate, not Hepburn or Hudson, but a roadworthy golf buggy with attitude, for a two-hour electric drive. Obviously, check the Croisette, the famous seaside boulevard lined with palm trees, luxury boutiques, and historic hotels, but include Le Suquet, the old town’s narrow, winding streets with views of the bay. The quiet motor suits the city’s relaxed atmosphere, and we are talking zero emissions, perfect for a city focused on sustainability — and for maintaining the pristine Riviera air.
My driver took me out to the Cap d’Antibes and back, soaking in sea views via the new Palm Beach area, then we checked out the often-overlooked AS Cannes football stadium and nearby Mandelieu airport. An airport where the Oscar-laden fly in for the film festival.
Red & White Are Not Just The Wine Choice At AS Cannes
Back to the football club, where it’s easy to buy matchday tickets, by the way. Ever wondered where Zinedine Zidane started? Well, Zizou first kicked a football for Association Sportive de Cannes Football, more commonly referred to as AS Cannes or simply Cannes. Three years older than Chelsea FC, the club was formed in 1902 as a general sports club and currently plays in the Championnat National 2, the fourth tier of French football, playing its home matches at the Stade Pierre de Coubertin, located within the city but a couple of miles from the shopping centres and beach, so completely ignored by tourists. Les Dragons home colours are red and white stripes, so I wore a suitably decorated shirt for my early morning visit.
The club was one of the founding members of the first division of French football, finished runners-up in the league’s inaugural season, and its highest honour to date was winning the Coupe de France in 1932. Cannes last played in the top division – Ligue 1 – in the 1997–98 season and are currently serving the longest stint of any club in the National division, having been in the league since the 2001–02 season. However, only last season AS Cannes lived out a phenomenal Coupe de France fairy-tale, a stunning recent highlight and a deep French Cup run in 2024–25. The Dragons, despite being a fourth-tier side — reached the semi-final, beating higher-division opponents en route before losing 2–1 to Stade de Reims. The run captured national attention and reinforced the narrative of a genuine resurgence beside the Mediterranean.
This is the club that has notably provided several prominent French football players, including the greatest of them all, Zinedine Zidane, plus Patrick Vieira, Johan Micoud, Gaël Clichy, Sébastien Frey and Jonathan Zebina.
An Artist’s Sanctuary On A Glorious Coast
After checking out the stadium, Kate and I took in some coastal scenery all the way down to the old town of Antibes. The stunning city sits between Nice and Cannes, with the Baie des Anges on one side and the Cap d’Antibes peninsula on the other. The turquoise sea water laps against sandy beaches beside a picturesque old port filled with art galleries, expensive yachts and ageing fishing boats. The Old Town, is a fascinating mix of cobblestone streets, street markets and 17th-century stone ramparts. The Marché Provençal is famously one of the best traditional markets in Provence brimful of local produce, cheeses, and flowers.
It’s no surprise that Picasso took up sticks, living in the Château Grimaldi in 1946, where he painted prolifically. The very same castle is now the Musée Picasso, housing many of the beautiful works he created and worked on in Antibes, becoming the first museum in the world dedicated to Picasso. The great Spaniard avoided going mad in Antibes, but many locals succumbed after a few too many nights out on the absinthe, which is the local delicacy and was (officially at least) banned in France in 1915; the reasons being a mix of health fears leading to social panic. Absinthe contains wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), which has a compound called thujone, believed to cause hallucinations, seizures, and insanity if consumed in excess! Make sure you check out the Irish bar selling the stuff…but I didn’t send you ok? And be thankful you have a driver supplied by the hotel.
Marea, The Rooftop Marvel
Where I do want to claim some credit for sending you is recommending the most stunning new restaurant in Cannes: Called Marea Rooftop, it is located on the rooftop of the Canopy hotel, with 360° views of the Mediterranean sea and the old town of Cannes.
I asked eminent food critic Julia Nelson to digest the culinary splendour: “Marea, perched high above the Old Port of Cannes on the rooftop of the Canopy by Hilton, is a destination that feels as magical as the Riviera itself. From the moment you step onto the terrace, the views captivate: the Mediterranean stretching endlessly to the west towards Monaco, to the east arriving at St Tropez, all in between shimmering yachts gliding across the harbour, the castle nodding along to the elegance, rising above the rooftops, with late summer skies that transform into a canvas of gold and crimson at sunset. It is a setting that defines romance, especially in the evenings when the city lights sparkle below.
The food is a celebration of Mediterranean flavours with a creative twist. The tuna tartare, served on crispy sushi rice with chipotle cream and confit ginger, is a perfect balance of freshness and spice. The Assiette Marea platter — a generous spread of shrimp, octopus, tuna, sea bass, mussels, squid, fennel, roasted gnocchi, rouille, and bouillabaisse sauce — is both abundant and refined. Grilled octopus with romesco, almonds, and piquillo peppers delights with smoky depth, while squid ink orecchiette with arugula, olives, and capers offers bold, briny notes.
Cocktails here are crafted with artistry, inspired by local citrus, herbs, and spirits. Each sip feels like a journey through the Riviera’s bounty, refreshing yet sophisticated.
Mornings at Marea Rooftop are equally memorable. The breakfast buffet is extraordinary, with an impressive selection of newly added organic yoghurt, fresh fruits, pastries, the finest local cheeses, and juices with bits in them. A highlight was the attentive staff, including an elderly gentleman who kindly offered to have the chef prepare eggs or an omelette to order — a thoughtful touch that elevated the experience.
Marea is not just a restaurant; it is a romantic escape, a feast for the senses, and a place where every detail feels designed to enchant.”
I should add that the new winter menu cuisine is described as, no surprise here, Mediterranean-inspired, ingredients garnered locally from land and sea, featuring raw, marinated excellence. The addition of a Daurade Tiradito with coconut milk green curry, cucumber and radish is to die for.
Location, Location, Emplacement
Two years old now the hotel is perfectly located between the old port, the beaches and the old town. The famous Promenade de #LaCroisette is just a 4-minute walk away from the #canopybyhiltoncannes , whilst the iconic Palace of Festivals and Conferences can be reached in just 5 minutes by foot from this incredible yet affordable 5 star hotel. Cannes Harbour and Midi Beach are also both just a one minute stroll from the property. Bikes from the hotel are available, free of charge.
A Winter Invitation
You should really think about taking a chance this winter on this amazing hotel and city. At least half the price of the luxury hotels close by. I met my old friend Carla Bruni there in years gone by. And she needs a break these days, too, I’d imagine. So the Canopy truly beckons for all.
A Hybrid Art of Living
Away from the madness of the festival, the hotel aims for a “hybrid art of living, combining Californian lightness and healthy living, inspired by the great French artists of tomorrow. A perfect blend of calm, well-being and beauty, illustrated, among other things, by a high-perched terrace.” And it succeeds marvellously.
Reinventing Hospitality
Such is the runaway quality of the new hotel I’m going to have to quote the wonderful Camille, who runs the marketing department, one more time: “Located at the crossroads of Provence and the Riviera, it is within the walls of this building facing the sea and renovated from top to bottom that the codes of hospitality are being reinvented. A stone’s throw from the typical markets and steep alleys, this place celebrates both the soul and the millennial light of the Mediterranean and the talents of our time. From the canvas to the plate, through the joyful atmosphere, not to mention the festive ambience of the Cannes enclave: Canopy by Hilton innovates and creates a new grammar with this new flagship to be discovered from summer 2023.”
Summer 2026 beckons too. But don’t rule out a late run in 2025!
Images courtesy of Canopy by Hilton.
For more information menus and bookings visit:
Traveling in France? Read about the quieter side of Champagne here
