Andrew Threlfall takes a trip to
In recognition of Hebbonair’s commitment to Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité, Liberty, Equality, Fraternity, the national motto of France (and, a lesser known fact, also the Republic of Haiti), I led the international press pack and headed over/under the Channel for the inauguration of the Caen Millennium.
Historically, it was largely due to William the Conqueror that Caen grew into a great city beside the River Orne and first came to the attention of the English hordes. 81 years ago nearby to Caen the D-Day landings on June 6, 1944, mark the largest amphibious and airborne operation in history and millions of visitors come to the Normandy beaches every summer to pay their respects and honour the brave allies who liberated France and Europe.
But that story is for another trip.
Today – and this summer – we are in Caen as it celebrates turning 1,000.
Yes, this is the summer you should really visit.
But back to William – and his wife, the formidable Matilda of Flanders – busy bearing him ten kids in those days and not dying in the process which was quite some achievement – also putting her unmistakable mark on the city commissioning a grand abbey. To this day the The Abbaye aux Hommes (where his tomb makes quite the picture) and the Women’s Abbey for Matilda, remain architectural highlights without comparison across the nation.
Their other project, the many-turreted Caen Castle was one of the most important in the duchy of Normandy located at 60 Avenue de la Libération, 14000 Caen – and on March 20th I gazed in awe at a fabulous animated fresco projection telling the story of Caen – or rather a ‘Spectacle de feu by Compagnie La Machine’ alongside what looked like half the city who had brought their kids along.
I’m staying ten minutes walk from the Castle at The People, a bright and breezy value for money no frills chain, spotlessly clean and able to house four people a room thanks to innovate bunk beds.
Time your visit, as I did, for the unmissable Friday flea market in the old town centre. El Olivo is a great local find and have excellent value house burgers and reds right next to the castle walls.
The Caen Memorial needs a half day visit and illustrates how appalling life was for the citizens of Normandy in WW2 (20,000 died during Allied bombings) as well as for the soldiers who participated on both sides.
Dinner at the historic restaurant Le Carlotta and drinks afterwards at sister eaterie Raphael (the connection is actually down to twins, twin number one chef Cyril and his wife Berengere own the Carlotta) is a sumptuous way to celebrate the thousand years.
Everywhere this summer you’ll see ‘Happy thousandth anniversary Caen’ banners in Normandy and this couldn’t have been a more beautiful evening in this emblematic place for the launch of the Millennium of the political capital of #Normandie which started under the best March weather in living memory.
Spring-like weather, well over 25,000 people in attendance, and a poetic and grandiose spectacle. Looking forward to the next installment. William and Mathilda would have been proud.
There are many reasons to visit this absolutely stunning city. Known as ‘the city of a hundred spires’, Caen’s skyline is a remarkable vision with Gothic, Romanesque and Renaissance towers, most notably the one atop Saint-Pierre Church. The other historic mansions, such as the Hôtel d’Escoville and Hôtel de Than, showcase the city’s Renaissance wealth together with 20th century architectural highlights, even Art Nouveau highlights found on buildings such as the Post Office Hotel at Place Gambetta.
Bringing the story fully up to date don’t forget a visit to Stade Malherbe Caen, to see the football club bought by French superstar Kylian Mbappe in September 2024. Sadly they have been relegated to the 3rd tier of French football for the first time in 40 years. But with Mbappe’s immense backing they’re sure to be entertaining everyone next season.
Caen finished 6th in Ligue 2 in the 2023/2024 season. 9 months after being bought by Mbappe they sit last in the league after only winning 5 games all season.
Of course any visit to Caen should include some WW2 memories. D-DAY veterans are on their last laps. But relatives return and honour them.
This June it was the 81st anniversary of D-Day, where the last few veterans of that heroic landing in Normandy in 1944 rightly take centre stage.
Though they are increasingly frail, and their numbers sadly diminished, these men capture everyone’s hearts because they exemplify tremendous courage and sacrifice.
One interview in 2019 on the BBC featured Harry Billinge, a remarkable man and a former Royal Engineer, who, as an 18-year old landed amongst the chaos and death and slaughter on Gold Beach as part of the first wave of troops. “A mate of mine died in my arms, and he was in a field in Caen” he told the reporter.
“Don’t thank me and don’t say I’m a hero. I’m no hero,” he insisted in a moving clip that went viral. “I was lucky. All the heroes are dead. Marvellous men. My generation saved the world and I’ll never forget them.”
Harry Billinge was a national hero of course, and from a generation who showed unimaginable courage in the face of genuine evil. Caen is the perfect starting point to visit this most remarkable part of France.
Make 2025 the year you can make it.
Discover more about what Le Havre has to offer on the Normandy Tourism website here
Images courtesy Normandy Tourism
Title image, Vaugueux district of Caen © B. Collier
Second image, Abbaye aux Hommes in Caen © Séverine Frères
Read about the architectural treats we discovered in Caen’s neighbour, Le Havre here
