Andrew Threlfall joins Hrefna Sætran in her Fiskmarkaðurinn restaurant in Reykjavík to explore the finest tastes of Iceland.
Hrefna Sætran is a renowned Icelandic chef known for her innovative approach to Nordic cuisine and her dedication to fresh, locally sourced ingredients. As the head chef and co-owner of the popular Reykjavík restaurant Fiskmarkaðurinn (The Fish Market), she has played a significant role in shaping Iceland’s modern dining scene. Her cooking style blends traditional Icelandic flavours with global influences, resulting in dishes that are as visually stunning as they are an absolute delight to taste. Sætran’s passion for seafood, in particular, has earned her widespread recognition, making Fiskmarkaðurinn one of the top dining destinations in Iceland. She is also the co-owner of Grillmarkaðurinn (The Grill Market), another acclaimed Reykjavík restaurant that focuses on high-quality Icelandic meats and seasonal ingredients.
Beyond her work in the kitchen, Hrefna Sætran is also a television personality and cookbook author, further cementing her status as a culinary leader. She has appeared on various cooking shows, sharing her expertise and enthusiasm for Icelandic gastronomy with a broader audience. Her commitment to sustainability and high-quality ingredients is evident in her cooking philosophy, which emphasizes respect for nature and seasonal produce.
Fire & Ice
AT: What is the culinary philosophy of Fishmarket restaurant?
HS: At Fishmarket restaurant we mix Icelandic ingredients with Asian flavours and sometimes other main ingredients when we know it fits the menu and we know it’s so good we want people to experience it. We import only what is necessary and are always on the look out for high quality ingredients.
Fresh From The Sea
AT: The seafood on the menu is increadble. Are you inspired by local markets? Is that how you got the name Fiskmarkaðurinn?
HS: This will ruin your idea of the romance of buying fish in Iceland. Because of the weather in Iceland, we don’t have proper fish markets. They have tried it but nobody showed up. So, its very modern here. We have fishmongers. They buy the fish online straight from the boats very fresh. Then we buy from our fishmonger. We are a big fishing nation but the variety of fish that is available for us is not that much. Sometimes we get a phone call from boats and they cought something exciting that we can get for like off menu. That is fun!
As Hard As Ice
AT: Running sucessfil restaurants is never easy. What particular problems have you faced in Iceland?
HS: There have been many challenges over the years. I opened Fishmarket in august 2007. Economy crisis, many volcano eruptions, bankruptcy of one of our airplane companies, covid… The list goes on haha, but we are still here, cooking and serving the best quality ingredient we can get and giving the best service in town.
AT: How much of what you are attempting both with the restaurants and the bars is a reflection of true Icelandic culture?
HS: Well, we use the ingredients more in our own way. Some of us have travelled abroad to learn more and then come back with that experience and we pass it down to the other staff.
Fiskmarkaðurinn, The Fishmarket
AT: What would you recommend we order for the full Icelandic taste experience?
HS: I would say our tasting menu is what you should go for. We have some of the classic dishes there but also new things mixed in. The lightly salted cod is a must try. We have so many regulars that come for that. King prawn tempura, Yellowtail sashimi and all the sushi we have, and white chocolate cheesecake. We put Icelandic twist on all these things when it fits.
Hot Tip For Ice Cool Dining
AT: Iceland is notoriously very expensive. How have you balanced the price with high quality for local people and tourists?
HS: It’s true, it is expensive to eat out in Iceland. The more easygoing restaurants, like pizza, burger and pasta places, that are normally cheap in other countries are expensive here. But the thing is, the high-end restaurants here in Reykjavík are actually way cheaper than in other cities. So, hot tip for foodies. Come to Iceland and dine at the high-end restaurants!
Juggling the Work Life Balence
AT: You must be constantly very busy juggling a family life with running a number of establishments in the city, how do you find the balance and take care of yourself?
HS: I have been in this business for 27 years now. During that time, I have often forgot to take care of myself and lost myself in work. But three years ago I decided to sign up for powerlifting, and take attending seriously. So, I book that time as a meeting so I will go every time. Today that is my time of the day. Its also my therapist. I can zone out there and relax. My family is very understanding about my job. I’m an only child so I don’t have a big family but I have two (11 and 12 years old) kids and a husband and they have been with me at work many times and like to help out. So we have quality time there also.
Where Are The Best Drinks In Reykjavík?
AT: You’ve also found the time to establish some very special bars in Reykjavík. Where would you say we should go for a drink after eating?
HS: If you are a wine geek Uppi bar would be your place. We have the biggest variety of wine in Reykjavík. At Skúli Craft bar we have alot of Icelandic craft beers. We have 12 tabs there and often collab with breweries from USA and other countries.
AT: Your signature Pistachio Espresso Martini is delicious. How did you create it? Are you inspired by films? 007?
HS: Espresso martini is very popular in Iceland as in the rest of the world. We wanted to put a twist on it. We tried six different types and the pistachio stood out. People came back for it over and over again. It was the talk of the town. Of course we are inspired by James Bond and movies who isn’t?
Skál – Cheers!
For more information and bookings visit:
Fiskmarkaðurinn here
Grillmarkaðurinn here
Uppi bar here
Skúli Craft bar here
Images by Björn Árnason
Incredible images capture to ice turning into fire! See the volcano eruption in Iceland here
