Saint Etienne, home of ASSE, Association Sportive de Saint Étienne, The Greens.
By Andrew Threlfall
From Britpop to the French Terraces of Saint Étienne
A chilly Friday night earlier this year, I ventured south to the outskirts of London where an old colleague was DJ’ing. Bob Stanley, a former writer alongside me at the former (and legendary) music magazine, Melody Maker, was more well known as one-third of indie Britpop band named after the French city, Saint Etienne. But what’s so special about Saint Étienne?
Fast forward a few months and I’m driving from Lyon airport, about 65kms, to Saint Étienne, for a weekend full of nostalgic footballing memories and tribal singalongs.
Stade Geoffroy-Guichard
I head out to the field of dreams for lunch at “Stadium Brasserie” overlooking the pitch and a guided tour of the Musée des Verts at Stade Geoffroy-Guichard, St Etienne’s 42,000 seater temple. This is where David Beckham was sent off in 1998, kicking out at Argentina’s Diego Simeone. Memories abound. The museum is about time travelling mostly through the 1970s and 80s when this club ruled French football. Hebbonair readers will find all of this pre-PSG-dominated world fascinating.
Putting on the Green
Staying at the four-star Novotel Châteaucreux Hotel directly across the road from the train station, I could see how hilly the city was, shrouded in autumnal mists. What an incredible hidden gem this historic former industrial city with a 171,000 population is.
Matchday arrived but not before playing the nine-hole Bluegreen Golf course (there is an 18-hole as well, plus a putting green and driving range), which is situated on elevated land only a mile or so outside Saint-Etienne and adjacent to the restaurant La Table des Lys.
One of Your Five-A-Day
A heartily earned lunch in the city centre consisted of local specialities like potato pancakes from my Chelsea FC-supporting chef. The chef then blazed me a hot sausage and herb-flavoured cottage cheese combo at the covered gourmet market Halles Mazerat, courtesy of Fromagerie Perrin. Surrounded by St Etienne fans made the atmosphere uniquely special.
Trincamp, Football Treasure more Green than Gold
Still two hours to the later than usual 5pm kick off so an essential trip to a vintage and somewhat legendary shop, Trincamp in the city centre that sells football memorabilia, 90 percent of it incredible St Etienne wonders that range from shorts to vinyl.
Saint Étienne
On to the temporary design exhibitions at the Cité du Design which were effortlessly chic matched by the design centre itself, then on to the stadium passing Sir Norman Foster’s designed and newish arena across the road from where I took in the Yves Zurstrassen exhibition at the amazing former industrial worksite turned art Galerie Ceysson and Benetière.
The Geoffroy-Guichard Stadium
Bob Stanley himself would be impressed at the cultural mix of football, stylish design, cuisine and history St Etienne has to offer. And the stadium? Where Bruce Springsteen once played. Well, it rocked. Heavily choreographed set piece crowd participation is the thing in France. Behind both goals choirs are led by podium directors, and shirtless (it was warm enough) conductors.
And Finally, The Game
The football isn’t premier league level but the atmosphere and singing often surpasses the English game. And this is a real living, breathing club integral to the city a vice versa. As my wonderful guide Eugénie drove me back to the train station after the 3-1 win, I met her husband and son. Because….because this place is real. Real people. Real football. Real St Etienne. Now that’s a name!
For more information about Saint Étienne, visit the website here
Keep up-to-date with the latest ASSE football news and results here
Picture credits from top: Saint Étienne Tourisme, Valentin Tissot; Saint Étienne Tourisme, Disybeltran; Saint Étienne Tourisme, Aurelie Sanchez; Saint Étienne Tourisme; Andrew Threlfall; Andrew Threlfall; Andrew Threlfall; Andrew Threlfall
Tick off your away-game bucket list with another great club, Racing Club de Lens. Find out more here
