Andrew Threlfall explores the ancient, religious heart of France, now bursting with theatre, music, food and festivities!
Say the name Avignon, something about that name isn’t there? Well, it’s a major, and probably the most beautiful (and beautifully named) city in Provence and to this day it is most famous for being the seat of the popes from 1309 to 1377 before they shuffled back to Rome (the city did however remain under papal rule until becoming part of France in 1791).
Avignon therefore briefly became the most famous city in the world, when the international spotlight reflected it’s status as the capital of the Christian world in those heady 14 century days when it became home to seven consecutive Popes at odds with the courts in Rome. It’s a long story and much detail is required here.
The town swelled as fortified ramparts and bridges were constructed, while the huge Papal Palace and Cardinals residences were built with no expense spared. The palace is double the size of the Notre Dame in Paris and well worth three hours and £12 of your time and pocket. I needed an early morning glass or two of wine to fire my imagination of 14th century life in the Palace but perhaps my day was uniquely framed as I was watching on my phone the actual Pope Francis’s funeral in the Vatican as I toured the mostly shelled out building. Ok, there is a rich selection of mediaeval art and sculpture on display in the nearby Petis Papal museum but the palace itself feels like a giant film set….Conclave anyone?
You can certainly reimagine the cardinals walking what are now one-way streets and narrow pavements. Like the atmospheric street Place des Corps Saints where I choose to lunch at L’Agape described as an “Industrial-chic restaurant with tasting menus spotlighting reimagined regional & global cuisine.” All I’m going to say is this menu has been beautifully constructed, and the fish options are truly astounding.
Despite arriving early – as the action in Rome framed the whole day – the Papal Palace was absolutely mobbed with tour groups in its mostly cavernous rooms. The nearby Petit Palais however is still free and houses a magnificent collection of early reniassance art. When I went it was virtually empty and at, one point I was alone in a room with five Bottecelli’s.
Avignon is set on the Rhône River and the historical remnants of the Pont d’Avignon, a mediaeval bridge is still evident. Just. Construction of the bridge commenced in 1177 and it was closed in 1633 after being destroyed by floods. Sadly only the five arches now remain.
Across the road from the home to the once upon a home to the popes I checked out the sumptuous La Mirande hotel built for a cardinal in the 1300s and decorated with two centuries of art, considered one of the finest collections in the region.
Central to its tourism the Papal palace may be but a splendidly vibrant cultural city has emerged thanks to a burgeoning university life and the famous annual international theatre and dance festival, The Festival d’Avignon. Founded in 1947 by Jean Vilar, the Festival d’Avignon has grown into one of the world’s foremost celebrations of contemporary performing arts, transforming the city each July into a vast open-air stage for over 75 years.
So if you’ve only got 24 hours I’d definitely recommend a quick stroll of the iconic Pont d’Avignon, two hours in the majestic Palais des Papes, but then utilise most of the daylight hours soaking up the extremely lively atmosphere of the local cafés, and absolutely unique vinyl record and comic shops hidden amongst the street markets.
My hotel was booked carefully for the logistically busy day of the Pope’s funeral at the glorious Hôtel de Cambis, a comfortable effortless four stars and located just five minutes walk from the train station on the eclectic and always busy Rue Joseph Vernet. My single room – thanks for getting me in guys was a Deluxe – Grand Cru, breakfast included. It’s extremely reasonably priced, but book early if you’re heading there in July for the festival, #FDA25 (Avignon Festival).
This vibrant Provençal town is bursting with religious history, culture, and postcard-worthy gargoyles at every turn so keep looking skywards for unexpected gems.
I would love to get back here for a longer stay especially to visit the nearby Rhone wineries, lavender fields and Roman ruins (either on your own or with a tour group) or even Île de la Barthelasse, a large park filled with biking and hiking trails across from the city center. Cycling is big here. Yes, that’s it…I’ll ride the streets next time!
Avignon also hosts an incredible international food scene with Afghani, Argentinian, Japanese, Mexican, Thai, and Pakistani food….plus Italian – a nod to the papacy of course.
And modern Avignon does tech too: In the entire city centre time an electric shuttle service operates to assist those with difficulty walking. I even observed an entire pallet being delivered by robots basically. No mean feat as the streets are narrow mostly paved, but cobbled too. Hundreds of ancient corners with statues and history around every corner stimulate the senses and there is even a mural dedicated to all the seven Avignon popes including the two ‘Antipopes’ Clement VII and Benedict XIII! Misbehaving Catholic boys. But that story is for another time.
If it’s good enough for the Pope…
For more information about Avignon and it’s festivals visit Avignon Tourisme
All images curtesy © Avignon Tourisme
From top, including title image: 4, 5, 6, 7 © Frédéric Dahm
For more festivals celebrating the the stage and screen read about our glamorous time in Cannes here
